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Topics covered below: Bonnet Adjustment, Brake Drum Removal, Checking Oil Levels, Cold Starting, Head Release, Tighten to Loosen.
Bonnet Adjustment
Investigation into recent reports on poor fitting Engine Hood and Hood Grille in relation to front fender and grille corner sections shows that in some cases there is a little more re-working required than normal adjustment.
When such a condition necessitates the re-forming or shaping of the forward contour of the Engine Hood this can be achieved by raising the Engine Hood and hammer setting the hood flange and reinforcement at locations shown in Figure 4. During the setting operation, apply hand pressure to the grille bar or engine hood front corner.
Misalignment between the hood grille and corner grille can often be corrected by gripping the underneath flange of the grille and pulling it out and upward.
Brake Drum Removal
Trying to remove a brake drum with no success? Make sure the adjuster is fully released, the emergency brake cable is slack and any screws holding the drum to the axle are removed. Then with a lead or brass hammer hit the brake drum with a single hard blow on the face of the drum next to the centre where the axle protrudes. This sudden blow causes the drum to slam against the axle flange and the rebound will cause the drum to pop free. Repeat until this drum is loose. Suggestion – do not hit on the holes where the screws held the drum to the axle, but rather move around the circle 90 degrees.
Checking Oil Levels
Sometimes it is difficult to see the oil level, especially after an oil change. Drill a small hole through the dip stick at the “add” mark and the “full” mark. Check the oil, hold up the dip stick and you can see the film of oil covering the hole. No more guessing!
Cold Starting
When starting your car, to save the battery on cold mornings, push the clutch pedal in. This saves the starter motor turning over the gear box which usually contains heavier oil than the motor and will be very stiff to turn. This makes turning over the engine easier and less taxing on the starter motor and the battery.
Converting an FX/FJ from 6v to 12v
The basics are: 12v battery, 12v voltage regulator. All bulbs replaced with 12v bulbs (don’t forget instrument lights and interior light!). Horns changed to 12v – you may not need to change these. Generator changed to post-FJ (12v one). You can leave the 6v starter in, it just cranks quicker – which can be a good thing, you don’t sit cranking the motor over for long periods of time. If you want to keep the original headlight with the funny fittings, use 12v Yamaha motorcycle headlight bulbs. The other option is you can get 7 inch inserts and fit quartz bulbs, then you can actually see something at night (but this will require using EJ/EH buckets). If you’re after halogen bulbs for special old headlights, 6 or 12 volts, 25 to 55 watts, single or double filament, contact Classic and Vintage Bulbs (specialists in halogen and classic car lighting and electrical)at Blackwood, South Australia on (08) 8278 4393.
Head Release
When separating a cylinder head from the engine block, or any other parts which have become stuck togethr by their gaskets, DO NOT insert screwdrivers or any other sharp object between the two parts to be separated. This method will most likely cause damage to the sealing surfaces and this could result in the parts having to be machined, or even worse replaced. The preferred method is to tap along the joint with eithr a soft (plastic) hammer or a piece of wood held against the joint and a normal steel hammer. This will almost always separate the joint.
Tighten to Loosen
Tighten to loosen? You bet! Removing a steering wheel or anything else that is splined can be made easier by first tightening the nut before trying to loosen the object. By tightening, the object moves slightly on the splines breaking any corrosion that has formed which makes it easier to remove.
